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Kokarri

By A. Curatolo

Kokkari means 'a small port', at a northern island of "Samos".  This Greek restaurant floated in San Francisco in December, 1998.  In Greek, it also means god cuisine and it is the name of a small rounded onion used in fine Greek cuisines.  My friend Mia and I are about to try one of many spices.  Mia and I are informed that it does not get much better than Kokkari when it comes to Greek cuisine…even in Greece.  I can make this statement because I have been to Greece and the cuisine here at Kokkari is better than I experienced there. It feels that my friend Mia and I just got off of a yacht and arrived in Greece.  The older culture had more time to work on hospitality.  It is more rounded and deep.

Mia, my guest from Japan is a model and has an MBA.  She never had Greek food and it is fun watching her explore the new tastes.  Dimitri, our server, knows what he knows and puts you at ease.  He is from Athens and feels comfortable and knowledgeable about all things that are Greek. 

The atmosphere feels like an aristocrats living room.  There is an elegant peace here beyond wealth.    There is wood everywhere and a grand fireplace releases light towards the bar where there is a welcome sign posted.  The service is warm here at Kokkari and the hospitality is fulfilling.  Like ocean waves, the quality of Kokkari is consistent, yet always interesting.  Kokkari feels like being on a boat somewhere taking it easy while nourishing you.  The bar is amber glowing and round.  It is a cool place to dine alone.  I can tell that women feel secure here.  There is something timeless about Kokkari.  The Greek folk music is from the late 50's and it echoes in the halls of Kokkari. 

The cuisine touches your soul with a festive presentation.  I suggest the zucchini cakes artichoke and eggplant on a skewer.  It is an amazing taste with direct eloquence in sheer simplicity through various textures.  This is fine dining at its highest.  The blood-orange dates with walnuts are a zesty palate cleanser…it is truly superb.  The snapper is placed in an oversized, oval white plate with lemon and olive oil with Kale.  This is as close to catching it yourself as you can get.  The olive ravioli spinach and feta cheese with Greek spices and dill is like eating in Italy and Greece simultaneously.  Slow food afficiandos will have the pita bread alone as monumental.  For desert, I enjoyed Greek rice pudding and baklava. 

White, rare grapes make up Santouni Island wine.  The grapes are planted in crisp, volcanic soil that is unknown to the America's.  Burgundy Pinots are bigger and taste great with Moussaka.  The Sommelier has a passion for Burgundy wines.  Mia and I are drinking a half of a bottle of only four cases in this country.  Feeling is sold in Burgundy fresh from the land of honeybees-Clostie Mouches Vineyard.  Diversity is what Burgundy is about.  Beverage director, Saeed Amini mentioned that Burgundy goes with so many cuisines.  Every single bottle of wine goes with what is happening.  Each region has it's own personality.    Mia, who usually drinks white, loves the Burgundy.  Greece, as well as Kokkari, serves sweet wines (Vinsantos) with sweet desert.  Vinsantos is the wine of the saints.  Mia asked, "Why have sweet wine with sweets?"  A voice said, "Good for digestion."  I personally don't understand sweet wines.  Although, I marvel at the invention of them.  

Kokkari has the potential to become anyone's lifelong addiction.

Rating-Super Cool

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