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North Beach Restaurant

By A. Curatolo

Lorenzo Petroni's passion for life manifests itself at The North Beach Restaurant, famous for it's Tuscan Cuisine.  Thirty-six years in business, this is the oldest Italian eatery with the same owner in San Francisco.  His philosophy of food has kept 'them coming back' as they say.  He has been in business for fifty years, starting out as a dishwasher and having been fortunate to work with some of the best in the business.  The Restaurant was born June 1, 1970, a Gemini.  Recipes are created by Lorenzo and 83 year-old chef Bruno Orsi.  He is a good chef with a good eye.  All pasta is made on the premises, and all sauces are made with Bravado.

They make their own wine: Cabernet, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, all being organic, from southern exposure and volcanic soil of very low yield - pour me a glass please.  Olive oil is also organically made here - organic trees from Pescaia, Italy of varieties:  Carotina,  Frantoio, Leccino, Morailoi, Pendolino. Lorenzo is an amazing Italian. 

The North Beach Restaurant is everything it appears to be; you even get a burst of Italian history.  Did you know that the Italians taught the French to cook in 1533 when Catherine de' Medici brought over hundreds of Italian chefs to France?  They even introduced the French to the fork and knife. 

The breads at North Beach Restaurant are from the heart of your Grandma's Grandmother- Italian cornbread baguettes from Danilo Bakery on Green Street.  Toscana Bakery, known for its famous sourdough can also tempt your senses; delightful focaccia is made on the premises, quite an operation from the heart.  The risotto reminds me of the 'forbidden rice' that only Chinese Emperors were allowed to eat.  One of the best marinara gravies I have ever tasted.  The cuisine at North Beach Restaurant is Italian on Italian... and the only way you are going to dig this is to try it yourself.  A combination of formal and unique, indigenous to what only North Beach Italian San Francisco can offer.

A: "If you had one Italian wine to choose from what would it be?"
L: "Bruno Giacosa 1982"

A: "Second choice?"
L: "Marco Caprai Sagrantino 1995 ~ $250"
You can purchase these at North Beach Restaurant

A: "Third bottle?"
L: "Brunello II Poggiolo  ~$150."  It's fun hanging out, conversation, senses alive...

Desert, here I come:  Homemade Creme Caramel, Hot Zabaglione (for two), "doble yome".

Architecturally, the building was built in 1924, with a private wine cellar which accommodates 90 people, can be 40 and 40, chef table.  Open 11:30am - 11:45pm 7 Days-continuous valet parking.  What strikes me about North Beach Restaurant is it's symphony of attention to detail from the decor and cuisine; especially how the staff interacts harmoniously, ex-attitude, not to mention how owner Lorenzo conducts just like a maestro his whole operation and the love of all things Italian.  I enjoyed the Italian cornbread over the other three varieties of Italian breads they serve at North Beach.

I also relished the wisdom of a man who weathered so many a storm and came out successful.  How he pointed out that - "look outside and see how dead it is now"... because of the Old-Guard Board of Directors of San Francisco made him wait twelve years just to get a permit to build a condominium.   How the Board holds in-house voting to re-elect the same old, same old.  How the 'have's' are not giving anything back to the city in the form of art, essential to make any town or city flourish.  The city of Love has become the city of hoarders and it is the youth, the artist's poets, who give luster to a city.  And how Lorenzo puts it, "the youth doesn't have a chance 'cause the crazies on the Board are so out of touch with real life that they are suffocating it with their antiquated rules that mean nothing except to fatten their already fattened pockets."

Keep in mind, it is the Italians who built a large part of San Francisco and even more, it is the Italians who are the Heart of San Francisco - Without Love, Nothing.  Watch out Board of Directors every where.   If you try to pull the heart out of your town or city based on your limited Greedy Attitude, sooner or later 'Love' conquers all... eat pasta.

With love,  Anthony Curatolo

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